Some hotels brag of their seclusion, offering guests a place to escape the hustle and bustle of what's going on in the outside world. Not the Park Hyatt Saigon. Smack-dab in the middle of Lam Son Square, the Park Hyatt is a marvel of modern efficiency—bustling on the surface, yet tightly operated from within, creating an urban oasis of its own.
Those who favor smaller, more boutique properties may be put off at first by the Hyatt's imposing size (244 rooms) and its neutral colonial aesthetic. But the attention to detail quickly becomes apparent, lending the operation a personalized feel: The staff is graceful and warm, the well-stocked organic toiletries are discreetly nestled in a sleek wooden box, and jars of still-warm pastries are delivered gratis each evening with turndown. My hardwood-lined suite has a fluid quality to it, with an open-walled closet and powder room setup that merges seamlessly into a sprawling bathroom complex.
But Saigon is not a city to be experienced from the inside of your room. Start the action at one of the hotel's two restaurants, which are perpetually packed with the city's pretty young things. The hype is warranted: Square One features a Vietnamese meets Western smorgasbord from various open kitchen stations in a dramatic, modern space; while Opera, on the ground floor, is unquestionably the city's finest Italian restaurant. Is it slightly disconcerting to bite into homemade tagliolini with smoked eel, peas and pepperoncino in Vietnam? Yes. Is it inspired, fresh, and extremely delicious? Also yes.
Although I reluctant to tuck into Western fare in the Eastern hemisphere, I notice that the restaurants (and the sleek stainless-steel bar adjacent to the lobby) are packed with travelers, expats, and locals alike. Recognizing that it's acceptable—nay, even desirable—to make a night out of dining and drinking at the Hyatt helps me to wrap my brain around contemporary Saigon—a Communist city rapidly evolving into a cosmopolitan destination. My reservations fade further as I tuck into a gorgeous plate of river prawns with five spice powder, soy, and chile at Square One.
Still, the heat and the traffic in Saigon are relentless, and the abundance of sights and smells outside can amount to a crippling sensory overload. In those moments, the Park Hyatt really is an oasis, a beacon of air-conditioned calm, with a hidden pool in the courtyard and a basket of ripe tropical fruits placed just so on the nightstand. The hotel functions both as a crash pad and a runway, because in Saigon, there's always something new to take off towards. —Jamie Feldmar
IN THE AREA
Pho bo vien tai sate at Quoc Ky: In Southern Vietnam, you will be assailed by pho options on nearly every street. Try something a little different at Quoc Ky, whose Chinese-inspired version comes with a rich coconut milk-and-peanut enhanced broth, alongside the requisite platter of fresh herbs. 52 Ngo Duc Ke
Com tam suon at Com Tam Ba Ghien: Another Saigon classic, com tam suon—essentially the workingman's lunch—is a heaping platter of rice topped with grilled marinated pork, a slice of egg pâté and a fried egg. There are plenty of com tam counters around, but Ba Ghien's version is arguably the best—just ask those in the snaking lunchtime line that materializes daily. 84 Dang Van Ngu
Cholon: Saigon's sprawling Chinatown is a great area for a wander—don't miss the Cho Binh Tay wholesale market, the heavily-incensed Quan Am pagoda, and the dozens of hot pot restaurants who set up streetside each evening. 
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