| Quebec: InterContinental Montréal Sep 27th 2013, 17:30 Montréal is an exceptional city for walking. With several streets closed off to cars, broad pedestrian malls, and miles of underground corridors to explore, it's a fantastic city to discover on foot. But after a long afternoon of shuffling over concrete and cobblestone, through museum and park and avenue, my feet desperately needed a rest. We entered the InterContinental through the Centre de Commerce Mondial de Montréal, and instantly the bustle of the city melted away. Montréal's World Trade Center is a collection of renovated Victorian-era buildings—the InterContinental included—connected by a shining glass atrium. We checked in the plush hotel lobby, then let the elevators whisk us up past several stories of office space to the far upper floors. Our room was a spacious retreat, decorated in warm jewel tones and perched high above the city, overlooking the winding streets of Vieux-Montréal and the ports on the Saint Lawrence river: a dazzling panorama that's certainly beautiful during the day, but truly magnificent after the sun sets. We admired the view until hunger won out, and then headed downstairs to dinner. At the age of 29, French native Matthieu Saunier became the youngest executive chef in the InterContinental hotel chain. His Provençal background lends a rich flavor to Osco!, the hotel's restaurant. Decorated in comfortably warm greens and browns, the dining room looks out on the colorful Palais des Congrès and Place Jean-Paul-Riopelle. The Provençal influence permeates the menu, with seared scallops, Provençal fish soup, steamed mussels, and seasonal risottos. Tucked into the corner of Osco! is La Bastide, the chef's corner, a charming replica of a typical Provençal kitchen, where the warm wood, clean tiles, and bright copper accents set the stage each morning for a deliciously homey breakfast buffet. The true star, however, is the adjoining Bar Sarah B. Named for legendary French actress Sarah Bernhardt, Bar Sarah B is classic and bohemian, with an elegant bar and some delightfully intimate private alcoves separated by sumptuous green velvet curtains. Sarah B's specialty is absinthe, served in a traditional preparation, with cold water dripping out of a beautifully decorated fountain over a sugar cube on a slotted spoon. The bar's menu boasts a number of extremely creative absinthe-based cocktails as well, but there's no substitute for the pure absinthe experience, especially when paired with Sarah B's outstanding Mediterranean tapas: We had octopus and chorizo in herbs and oil and a surprisingly delicate cod accras served on a wooden board. Bellies full and eyes bright with absinthe, we collapsed into our room's king-sized bed and surrendered ourselves to fanciful dreams of la fée verte. — Sarah Becan IN THE AREA - Vieux-Montréal: The oldest area of the city, Vieux-Montréal has winding cobblestone streets, phenomenal architecture, and some preserved buildings dating back to the 1700s. Certain areas, notably Rue Saint Paul, are protected pedestrian walkways for much of the day. There are dozens of art galleries and shops to explore, as well as an abundance of charming bistros, taverns, and cocktail bars, usually with a good amount of outdoor seating. The neighborhood is more than a little touristy, and can get a bit loud and raucous on the weekends, but it's absolutely worth a stroll. vieux.montreal.qc.ca
- Pointe-à-Callière: Montréal's Museum of Archaeology and History is perched just steps away from the St. Lawrence river. It hosts a number of interesting temporary exhibits—we visited a surprisingly fun interactive display about the history of tea—but the real attraction is the sprawling subterranean permanent exhibit about the birth of Montréal. Replete with original stonework and artifacts, the exhibit is essentially an explorable archaeological dig, and tells a fascinating story reaching from the First Nations and French settlers to the Montréal of today. 350 Place Royale, Corner of de la Commune; 514 872-9150; pacmusee.qc.ca
- Le Quartier Chinois: The city's Chinatown is small, but vibrant, with a large paifang at each of the four entrances. There's plenty of typical Chinatown fare: video stores, accessory boutiques, antique and curio shops, and of course lots of restaurants. Here you'll find some delicious dumplings, Cantonese seafood and barbecue, a surprising amount of phở, and amazing bubble teas. Rue de la Gauchetière is a pedestrian mall here, filled with outdoor vendors and street food, and makes for an incredibly fun way to explore the area. quartierchinois.info
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