For those weary of the traffic snarls and sauna-like conditions in Bangkok, Chiang Mai provides the perfect antidote—northern Thailand's largest city is blessed with cooler temperatures, stunning mountain backdrops, and a lively food and culture scene.
At 137 Pillars House, a brand-new boutique hotel in the leafy Wat Gate neighborhood, it's tempting to simply camp out in the plush, vintage-Oriental surroundings in lieu of wandering the alley-crammed central city. The former home of the manager of the buccaneering British East Borneo Company, the lush compound is centered around a pretty 19th-century teak villa lined with a tiled veranda and rattan furniture. This is where the hotel's Drawing Room lounge, dining room, and Library Bar are located, while cobblestone footpaths lead outwards to the vine-lined pool and 30 individual suites.
Dinner in the Dining Room runs the gamut from Western standbys (spaghetti Bolognese, fish & chips) to upscale Thai (roast duck curry with grapes, tomatoes, and pineapple), but the restaurant de resistance is Palette, whose menu is distinctly global, featuring dishes from pan-seared seabass with Riesling foam and tropical fruit salad to chicken saltimbocca on polenta cream with Orinji mushrooms and truffle jus. A word to the wise: Save your Thai cravings for the streets, where vendors or open-air restaurants will give you a spicier, wider (and significantly cheaper) array, and reserve Palette for a special occasion or break from the fiery local fare.
After temple-hopping in the moat-lined Old City or day-tripping to the nearby jungle, retreat to the sprawling timber-lined suites, kitted out with private balconies, walk-in closets, outdoor showers, and nostalgic photos of the historic city in centuries past. Turndown service includes a selection of tropical fruits and a nightly "bedtime story" card placed on each pillow, guaranteeing sweet dreams.
—Jamie Feldmar IN THE AREA:
Chinatown/Warorot Market: Just across the Ping River from 137 Pillars House, the sprawling Warorot Market in Chiang Mai's bustling Chinatown has it all: exotic fruit, cheap kitchen utensils, prepared foods, and restaurant stalls, plus an adjacent wholesale flower market and rows of inexpensive clothing shops. Prepare to get delightfully lost in the maze-like corridors.
Wat Phra Singh: Chiang Mai's most important temple, the stunning Lanna-style Wat Phra Singh houses an image of the revered Lion Buddha. Wander the dazzling, gold-trimmed temples and the meditative grounds, and stop by the designated "monk chat" hours to learn everything you ever wanted to know about Buddhism but were too afraid to ask.
Samlarn and Ratchadamnoen Rds, Chiang MaiTake a cooking class: Cooking courses abound in Chiang Mai, running the gamut from all-vegetarian menus to daytrips to nearby organic farms. Most operators will pick you up from the hotel in the morning, then drive you to a nearby produce market or the surrounding countryside to collect ingredients for the day's lesson.
Thai Cookery School is one of the city's oldest and best, offering intro-level group classes as well as "Master Courses" covering northern Thai regional specialties for more advanced chefs.
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