The Gladstone, a boutique hotel that debuted in Toronto's trendy West Queen West neighborhood in 2006, has a history that spans centuries. Originally built in 1889 as an upscale inn, it soon became known as a preferred spot for visiting artists and vaudeville performers. Over time, it fell into serious disrepair, and remained that way until 2000 when it was bought and renovated by Christina Zeidler.
Zeidler's stunning redesign took care to preserve the building's original Neo-Romanesque beauty—its vaulted ceilings, exposed brick, and dynamic archways—while adding streamlined, modern touches. She also commissioned local artists to design the hotel's 37 rooms, rendering each one utterly unique from the others. The room I stayed in, the
Racine, was envisioned by artists Susan Collett, Penelope Stewart, and Nicholas Stirling to evoke the "wish you were here" longing that often accompanies travel. A flat screen television was cleverly hidden in a stack of hollowed out antique suitcases and steamer trunks; the chairs were upholstered with images of postcard stamps; and found postcards written decades ago were strung around the room, evoking a wistful mood. I immediately wanted to flop down on the bed with a stack of empty postcards of my own. Fortunately, the Samsung Galaxy Tablet available in every room helped keep me connected to home.
Speaking of art, lots of boutique hotels feature it—but few have dedicated nearly every available inch of public wall space to local artists. The Gladstone has done exactly that, turning the hallways, ceilings, and stairwell into an ever-rotating gallery of experimental and innovative artwork. Curated by a full time Director of Exhibitions, The Gladstone hosts more than 70 exhibitions each year.
Downstairs, the
Café maintains the hotel's commitment to art, while offering upscale pub food like ancho-chipotle rubbed wings, tempura haddock, chips with avocado relish and, for vegetarians, a taro burger topped with pumpkin seeds, pickles and tamarind barbecue sauce. I lucked out enough to arrive on a Monday, when a burger and a pint of beer are only five dollars. Since I was traveling and dining alone, I brought my laptop to keep me company while I ate. That's usually enough to warrant a dirty look from the waiter—especially on a buzzing night, like the one I sat down to—but at The Gladstone, I fit right in.
—Leah Koenig IN THE AREA
Dark Horse Espresso Bar: Before setting foot into Dark Horse, multiple people ensured me theirs was the best espresso in the neighborhood. I hardly visited enough other cafés to make such a claim, but the cappuccino, pulled from beans custom-roasted by
Detour, with its inch of creamy foam, did not disappoint.
684 Queen West Street; 647/352-3512; darkhorseespresso.comBYOB Cocktail Emporium: Aspiring mixologists and bitters fiends will feel like they have come home in this well-curated shop dedicated to all things bar and cocktail related. I spent at least 15 minutes perusing the many varieties of bar spoons and ice cube molds before being drawn, moth-like, to a gleaming display of vintage, Mad Men-inspired glassware.
972 Queen Street West; 416/858-2932; byobto.comMuseum of Contemporary Canadian Art: Founded in 1999, MOCCA moved to its current location in 2005 and quickly became a neighborhood fixture. The pay-what-you-can admission makes their eclectic mix of Canadian and international artists' work accessible to all.
952 Queen Street West; 416/395-0067; mocca.caTerroni: High quality, home-style Italian fare—handmade spaghetti with lemony spinach and capers; white pizza with gorgonzola, potatoes, spicy sausage, and rosemary—is the focus at this charming, two-story restaurant. Nibble on their rustic bread and addictively fiery olive-oil-marinated hot peppers, and peruse a copy of Terroni's staff-produced
T Magazine while waiting for your meal.
720 Queen Street West; 416/504-0320; terroni.com
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