First-time visitors to Vietnam often overlook Hué. The former imperial capital lacks the pulsing big-city appeal of Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City or the beachside lure of Hoi An or Nha Trang. But what Hué lacks in obvious attractions it makes up for with a low-key charm, a deeply imbued sense of history, and a home base with true character: La Residence Hotel.
The former residence of the French colonial governor, the recently restored La Residence has a streamlined '30s-style Art Deco aesthetic, with clean horizontal lines and deep burgundy accents throughout. Each suite—most of which overlook the Perfume River and the walled-in Citadel across the water—has a theme, from "Un Voyage Chinoise" to The Ornithological Room. Mine was The Egyptian Room, done up with slender ceramic vases, original window moldings and a sweeping balcony perched above the oversized pool and neatly-arranged herb garden.
Those herbs, I learned, are put to good use at the hotel's restaurant, Le Parfum. While the menu is divided into "Western" and "Vietnamese" sections, even the former selections show an Eastern flair: a salad of smoked duck breast with yogurt and foie gras ice cream arrives on a bed of crisp banana blossoms, while sea bass with mascarpone-enhanced polenta is kissed with Nha Trang sea urchin sauce. The specialties of central Vietnam—grilled beef in earthy
lalot leaf, the spicy local noodle soup called
bun bo hue—are well represented, but upon special request, the hotel can arrange for a taste of what Hue cuisine is truly renowned for: its royal roots.
Emperor Tu Duc was a notoriously fussy diner, demanding dozens of intricate, tapas-style dishes at each meal. His legacy today appears in Le Parfum's imperial dinner, featuring
banh beo, Hue's ubiquitous two-bite steamed glutinous rice cakes, topped here with shrimp and crispy pork rinds, plus miniature spring rolls, a silky seafood soup, and delicately fried prawns presented in fruit bowls carved into peacocks, among other courses. It's a formal event, presented with pomp and ceremony, and sometimes traditional costume and dancing, too.
After I had recovered from my kingly feast, I borrowed an old-fashioned bicycle from reception and pedaled my way across the river to visit the former Imperial Enclosure within the Citadel. U.S. forces heavily bombed its grounds during the Vietnam War, but today the Enclosure is a peaceful, if haunting, place to wander. After a quick street snack of
banh trang trung—fried rice-paper cakes topped with scrambled egg and pâté—I hopped on to one of the many brightly-colored wooden boats cruising the Perfume, which deposited me upriver at the Tu Duc Royal Tombs. I wandered the lavish grounds quietly, slowly reveling in the Hue's riches.
—Jamie Feldmar IN THE AREA
- Bun Bo Hue at Quan Cam: No visit to Hué is complete without a taste of this eponymous noodle soup, made with thin rice noodles, slow-simmered beef shank, pig trotter, and blood cubes in a fiery lemongrass-infused broth. La Residence serves an upmarket version, but for a more local experience, head to the tiny Quan Cam, outfitted with tiny plastic chairs, first thing in the morning. 38 Tran Cao Van Street
- Banh at Hang Me: Not to be confused with the Hang Me Me and Hang Me Me Me copycats on the same street, Hang Me is the locals' choice for different kinds of banh, steamed rice cakes. Some arrive wrapped in banana leaves, others in tiny ceramic bowls, each with their own distinct dipping sauce. Get the sampler platter for the best variety. 45 Vo Thi Sau Street
- Com Hen and Bun Hen at Com Hen Nho: Another central Vietnamese specialty, hen are tender, fingernail-sized clams sold by the bucket in Hue. They appear in a congee-like porridge made with fresh herbs and broken rice (com), or in a refreshing broth-free noodle dish (bun) with herbs, peanuts, and pork rinds. This tiny restaurant is packed in the late morning with locals slurping bowls and washing them down with glasses of homemade iced yogurt. 45 Vo Thi Sau Street
No comments:
Post a Comment